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Sicily: History of an Intercultural Gastronomy

2023-02-19 21:32

Nino Zizzo

Sicilia, made in sicily, food, tradition, gastronomy, zicily, sicilian food, typical dishes, cuisine, Sicilian cuisine,

Sicily: History of an Intercultural Gastronomy

The development of the culinary art in Sicily has been going on for more than two millennia, and has been strongly influenced by the historical and cultural eve

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The development of the culinary art in Sicily has been going on for more than two millennia, and has been strongly influenced by the historical and cultural events linked to the numerous dominations: Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans, Vandals and Ostrogoths, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Swabians, Angevins , Aragonese-Spanish, Habsburg… Its strategic position in the center of the Mediterranean and the richness of its lands have made Sicily the object of conquests and trades since ancient times, thus allowing it to come into contact with a myriad of different cultures they have influenced and enriched its identity. One of the best expressions of this "wealth" is the gastronomic culture, a reason for recognition and common identity for Sicilians. Exploring Sicilian cuisine is a way to get to know Sicily and better understand its identity. This precise style, over the centuries, has taken on the characteristics that have made it unique, enriching itself with flavors and dishes. People have remained tied to the flavors of the sea and the land and some recipes, of very ancient origin, are still prepared and served frequently at the table today. Although there are differences and territorial specialties, the Sicilians have assimilated the influences of the cultures that have dominated it in a uniform manner, resulting in a homogeneous gastronomic culture. Typical Sicilian cuisine is therefore a real journey through history and the rest of the world. All this has created a very varied and unique culinary culture all over the world, with specialties that can only be found in this land, from Palermo to Trapani, from Messina to Syracuse. In fact, every single province is characterized by a dish, which you will hardly be able to find elsewhere. Let us then begin the cultural journey of Sicily, an island full of color, which has known the influence of multiple populations, from the Arabs to the Greeks, where the different peoples who have passed through it have left a culinary legacy and a multicultural cuisine, which differs throughout the island.

Main stages in the evolution of Sicilian cuisine:

1. Greek influence

The ancient Sicilian cuisine, strongly characterized by the consumption of fish, was known since the Egyptian era and was very successful among the Greek poleis. Sicilian cooks were considered the most skilled around. Among them was Miteco Siculo, the author of what is considered the first cookery book in history, as well as Archestrato di Gela, considered the father of the critics of the culinary art. .d it is precisely from the Greek world that the first important contaminations arrive. The Greeks transmitted their love for ricotta, improved the methods of cultivating vineyards (in classical times Sicilian wine was among the most renowned), introduced oregano and almond and honey sweets, but above all they imported the olive tree.

2. Arab Revolution

The Arab influence was decidedly revolutionary for Sicilian cuisine. If we want to give credit to the school of thought that identifies the origin of pasta in China, it is not absurd to believe that, thanks to trade and cultural exchanges with the East, it was the Arabs who spread the knowledge of making pasta in Sicily (knowledge that then spread throughout Europe). Although the way in which pasta arrived in Sicily remains shrouded in mystery, we can say with certainty that it was in this period that the production of Sicilian pasta evolved, in particular that of spaghetti. There is an anecdote that would see the birth of the first sea and mountains dish in history in this period. In the Syracusan area, an Arab cook found himself in the situation of having to adequately feed the encamped army, and do it quickly. He therefore had to make do with ingredients available in the area. The result was a dish made up of pasta with sardines, mixed with wild fennel and pine nuts. The dish brought together carbohydrates, fish and vegetables. The Arabs also introduced oranges, lemons, sugar cane, rice, saffron, the use of sesame. But the most important revolution is perhaps that of desserts. It was the Arabs who brought the sharbat, progenitor of sherbet and granita, for which neviere were built all over the island: underground rooms whose purpose was to preserve the snow until the summer. Marzipan and marzipan are also Arabic. With ricotta however, Arab confectioners elaborated the prototypes of what would become cannoli and cassata.

3. The Aragonese and the news of the new world

Thanks to the Spanish flu, spices from the West Indies arrived: peppers, pumpkins, tomatoes, turkeys and cocoa (especially from America). The domination of the Spaniards strongly contaminated the Sicilian cuisine, for example the 'mpanatigghie derive from the empanadas, as well as the Catania scaccie. Caponata has Catalan roots and legume omelettes derive from tortillas. With the introduction of the new spices, the nuns of the cloistered monasteries indulged themselves in reviving the art of confectionery. They created the cassata (thanks to the sponge cake), the cannoli, the cassateddi, the spingi frarici, cartocci, iris) all sweets with ricotta made with chocolate, cinnamon, candied fruit or liqueurs, with which various types of pasta are stuffed. The nuns of the Martorana convent in Palermo modeled marzipan and marzipan in the shape of fruit and vegetables. These elaborates took the name of “Martorana” fruit. The minni di virgini (biscuits in the shape of breasts) and the Easter marzipan lambs are also the work of the nuns.

4. Modern era

In 1800 the Sicilian tuna traps saw their maximum expansion, then they fell into disuse and tuna fishing had a significant decrease. In the Bourbon era, Sicilian cuisine already had a very clear identity. Decade after decade we have arrived at Sicilian cuisine as we know it today: a wonderful concentration of knowledge and taste. Today Sicilian cuisine can represent the symbol of the Mediterranean Diet proclaimed a World Heritage Site by Unesco. In fact, the Sicilian gastronomic offer increasingly involves the territory, between history, culture and traditions. There is great interest in traditional dishes and the cultural identity that characterizes them. A dish, as a testimony, a means of knowledge, a trait d'union for getting to know a territory. A dish that serves to strengthen a sense of belonging, of protection and enhancement of one's food and wine heritage.


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